How a coat created for inclement weather stood the test of time

THERE is something reassuring about a fashion classic. In an industry that moves at an extraordinary pace, with trends arriving and disappearing almost overnight, few garments have remained as ubiquitous as the Burberry trench coat. Founder Thomas Burberry invented gabardine, a lightweight, breathable and waterproof cotton, in 1879, designed to weather England’s four-seasons-in-a-day weather. Burberry and its trench coat are as much a symbol of London as its historic streets, unpredictable weather and effortless fashion culture is.
On a recent visit to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, I discovered ‘The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon’, a beautifully curated exhibition celebrating 170 years of the British luxury house’s heritage, innovation and craftsmanship. The exhibit runs from September 21, 2026, until January 3, 2027, and offers a rare opportunity to explore archival treasures and extraordinary runway creations, revealing a far more experimental and artistic side of Burberry than we often associate with the brand.

Founded in 1856, the house began with a vision of creating practical, weather-resistant clothing. Gabardine marked a significant moment in textile innovation, introducing a durable and breathable fabric that transformed protective outerwear.

Originally associated with military use and World War I, the trench coat was designed with purpose in mind. Epaulettes, storm flaps, D-rings, belted waists and carefully constructed collars were functional details rather than mere decoration. Over time, however, this practical garment evolved into a symbol of understated British sophistication.

Walking through the exhibition, I found myself looking beyond the familiar beige trench. What fascinated me was how each element carried a story, and how a garment born out of necessity became one of fashion’s most enduring icons.

As a fashion stylist, I have always believed that true luxury lies in the details, particularly those that may not be immediately visible. The exhibition brings this philosophy to life.

A classic Burberry trench involves more than 190 individual processes and approximately 90 precisely shaped pieces. Even the collar is a remarkable feat of craftsmanship. Constructed from eight separate pieces of fabric, including Irish linen for structure, it requires around 270 stitches to achieve its distinctive curve. The collar is attached by hand, and mastering this specialist technique can take a tailor up to a year.

It is these painstaking processes, the precision of the construction and the understanding of how fabric behaves, that distinguish exceptional craftsmanship from ordinary clothing. In a world increasingly driven by speed and mass production, seeing this level of dedication up close is a reminder of the skill and human ingenuity behind a truly iconic garment.

For me, the most exciting part of the exhibition was the collection of runway interpretations. Alongside classic and vintage Burberry pieces were creations that challenged every conventional expectation of what a trench coat could be.

One particularly striking piece was a powder-blue Nottingham lace trench from Christopher Bailey’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection, adorned with oversized jewelled rosettes. The delicate lace, almost romantic in its appearance, contrasted beautifully with the bold embellishments, creating a garment that felt simultaneously nostalgic and contemporary.

Elsewhere, richly textured metallic fabrics, intricate floral appliqués, sculptural shoulders, studded leather sleeves and unexpected combinations of materials demonstrated the extraordinary possibilities of the trench silhouette. Brocades, tweeds, leather and elaborate embellishments brought depth and individuality to the collection, with each piece offering a different interpretation of the house’s design language.

I was particularly drawn to the interplay of textures: the contrast between structured outerwear fabrics and delicate decorative elements, the richness of embroidery, and the way layering and surface detailing transformed familiar shapes into something entirely unexpected. Some pieces felt almost architectural, while others had the romance and intricacy of eveningwear.

And then there was the Burberry gown. Riccardo Tisci’s floor-length interpretation transformed the recognisable trench silhouette into something almost couture-like. It was a striking demonstration of how a design associated with everyday outerwear could be reimagined as an evening statement.

Seeing these garments in person was an entirely different experience from viewing them on a runway or in a fashion magazine. Photographs can capture a silhouette, but they rarely convey the depth of a fabric, the dimensionality of embroidery, the intricacy of embellishment or the precision of a beautifully finished seam.

What I particularly appreciated was seeing how Christopher Bailey, Riccardo Tisci and Daniel Lee have each interpreted Burberry’s heritage through their own creative perspectives, pushing boundaries while retaining the unmistakable identity of the house.

I am constantly searching for pieces that possess character without needing to shout. A beautifully cut coat can transform the simplest outfit, work across seasons and occasions, and be styled in ways that feel entirely personal. That, to me, is the real meaning of a classic.

What makes Burberry remarkable is that its heritage is not confined to reproducing the past. The exhibition demonstrates that longevity in fashion comes not from standing still, but from understanding what makes a design distinctive and allowing it to evolve.

The classic beige trench remains timeless, but its many reinterpretations reveal a world of experimentation, artistry and imagination beyond the familiar.

For anyone visiting London, I recommend making time for this exhibition. It is intimate, rich in detail and, wonderfully, free to visit.

Because a great trench coat is never just another coat. It is a piece of history, an expression of craftsmanship and a canvas for creativity. And after 170 years, Burberry continues to prove that the most enduring fashion statements are not necessarily the loudest, but the ones that leave room for reinvention.

Trends may come and go, but true icons never stand still. They evolve, inspire and endure.